Eat Like a Greek God/Goddess at Persephone(CLOSED)
By Doug Singer
Persephone, an upscale Greek restaurant launched by owners Nicola Kotsoni and Steve Tzolis, officially opened on the Upper East Side of Manhattan in January 2008. Since that time it has developed a loyal following.
The restaurant’s décor is elegant and chic, and features many thoughtful embellishments indigenous to Greece. Upon entering the restaurant, you are greeted by a beautifully restored, hand-painted bar. On the walls surrounding the dining area hang a masterful set of Matisse woodblock prints based on a Greek Goddess. These are offset by lighting sconces that evoke a nautical feel, which were hand crafted by an Athenian artisan. The standard white linen table dressings and tasteful place settings complete the elegant, ethnic appeal.
The kitchen, which is overseen by executive chef James Henderson, provides a selection of fresh fish selections including organic Scottish salmon, Mediterranean bass and other daily preparations. The menu is centered around authentic side dishes that are traditionally served in Greece as main courses. We started with Patzaria Skordalia, which is an array of roasted baby beets dressed with a very garlicky sauce. Although bold, this dish was exquisite and quite frankly something that I am prepared to eat every day for the foreseeable future. The Keftedes Saltsa (Mediterranean spiced meatballs, tomato and strained yogurt) was dripping with ethnic flare. Next came a pairing of bite size, savory pastries. One spinach, although not with the traditional filo dough and the other, a sheep’s milk pie, which left me short of words and wanting more. The grilled octopus (Octapodi Periyali) was hands down the best dish I have had in quite some time and transported me to a seaside café in Mykonos. The briny, smoky flavor combined with the picture perfect grill marks, made this dish camera ready for a spread in Bon Appétit Magazine.
As we moved on to the main courses, it was becoming apparent that an outstanding culinary experience was taking shape. The Moshari Frikase (braised beef with a dill lemon sauce) was cooked to perfection and delicious. The Psita Ortikia (grilled quail, mushrooms, horta and large chunks of feta cheese) was like a Mediterranean version of southern barbecue. Delicious, grilled meats, set atop some wilted greens… southern comfort indeed. These dishes, paired with a bottle of 2003 Tsantali Reserve, Naousa, an exquisite Greek wine which is characteristic of a Pinot Noir, left me feeling completely satisfied.
At no time can I recall a Greek meal this elaborate or fine. The food, service, ambiance and wine were all top notch.
As I was winding down and basking in the splendor of this exquisite meal, I was suddenly presented with some delightfully rich Greek yogurt, accompanied by a trio of fruits in syrup, including grapes, apricots and quince. This elegantly sweet delight, paired with a glass of high quality Grappa, was the perfect ending to an exceptional meal.
Henderson’s passion for fresh ingredients, combined with his nuanced appreciation of Greek cuisine, has led Persephone to culinary excellence. This dining experience is not to be missed.
115 E. 60th St., New York, NY 10022
212-339-8363
Persephone, an upscale Greek restaurant launched by owners Nicola Kotsoni and Steve Tzolis, officially opened on the Upper East Side of Manhattan in January 2008. Since that time it has developed a loyal following.
The restaurant’s décor is elegant and chic, and features many thoughtful embellishments indigenous to Greece. Upon entering the restaurant, you are greeted by a beautifully restored, hand-painted bar. On the walls surrounding the dining area hang a masterful set of Matisse woodblock prints based on a Greek Goddess. These are offset by lighting sconces that evoke a nautical feel, which were hand crafted by an Athenian artisan. The standard white linen table dressings and tasteful place settings complete the elegant, ethnic appeal.
The kitchen, which is overseen by executive chef James Henderson, provides a selection of fresh fish selections including organic Scottish salmon, Mediterranean bass and other daily preparations. The menu is centered around authentic side dishes that are traditionally served in Greece as main courses. We started with Patzaria Skordalia, which is an array of roasted baby beets dressed with a very garlicky sauce. Although bold, this dish was exquisite and quite frankly something that I am prepared to eat every day for the foreseeable future. The Keftedes Saltsa (Mediterranean spiced meatballs, tomato and strained yogurt) was dripping with ethnic flare. Next came a pairing of bite size, savory pastries. One spinach, although not with the traditional filo dough and the other, a sheep’s milk pie, which left me short of words and wanting more. The grilled octopus (Octapodi Periyali) was hands down the best dish I have had in quite some time and transported me to a seaside café in Mykonos. The briny, smoky flavor combined with the picture perfect grill marks, made this dish camera ready for a spread in Bon Appétit Magazine.
As we moved on to the main courses, it was becoming apparent that an outstanding culinary experience was taking shape. The Moshari Frikase (braised beef with a dill lemon sauce) was cooked to perfection and delicious. The Psita Ortikia (grilled quail, mushrooms, horta and large chunks of feta cheese) was like a Mediterranean version of southern barbecue. Delicious, grilled meats, set atop some wilted greens… southern comfort indeed. These dishes, paired with a bottle of 2003 Tsantali Reserve, Naousa, an exquisite Greek wine which is characteristic of a Pinot Noir, left me feeling completely satisfied.
At no time can I recall a Greek meal this elaborate or fine. The food, service, ambiance and wine were all top notch.
As I was winding down and basking in the splendor of this exquisite meal, I was suddenly presented with some delightfully rich Greek yogurt, accompanied by a trio of fruits in syrup, including grapes, apricots and quince. This elegantly sweet delight, paired with a glass of high quality Grappa, was the perfect ending to an exceptional meal.
Henderson’s passion for fresh ingredients, combined with his nuanced appreciation of Greek cuisine, has led Persephone to culinary excellence. This dining experience is not to be missed.
115 E. 60th St., New York, NY 10022
212-339-8363
