Nirvana Sets the Stage for the Indian Food Connoisseur
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By Douglas Singer
Stimulating the local scene in the Murray Hill section of Manhattan, Nirvana Restaurant lit up their marquee two years ago. Formerly the 35 year home of Stella del Mar, Nirvana took a cue from the sophisticated consumer and a new vision was launched, and a new story is now being told. With many years of industry experience the first effort of the charismatic duo Pravin Mascarenhas and Anil Amin is something that is certainly worthy of praise.
Situated in a duplex on Lexington Avenue, the contemporary, yet warm environment is extremely inviting and beckons you to make yourself a regular fixture. The downstairs boasts an ultra-hip lounge which has played host to a variety of events including fashion shows and weekly live jazz, as well as a regular happy hour that features half-price drinks and free appetizers. The upstairs is an elegant and relaxed dining room which is very welcoming for those ready to get their foodie on.
We decided to start off the evening at the lounge on the lower level with a couple of delicious specialty cocktails and some appetizers. The Tawa Scallops (pan seared sea scallops with tempered coconut yogurt dip) were grilled to perfection, beautifully presented and set the stage for what was to be a memorable performance. The sauce was laced with roasted mustard seeds that created a delightful burst of flavor and added smokiness to the delicate blend. This was quickly followed by the Rosemary Malai Chicken (charcoal grilled in a rosemary cream marinade) whose elegant aroma of fresh roasted cumin was front and center and the brilliant combination of flavors jumped off of our fork and danced on our palate. As we were readying to head up to the main dining room, Pravin insisted that we try the Tandoori Lamb Chops. Accompanied by a sumptuous Pinot Noir, these decadent treats truly tantalized our taste buds. It is no wonder that this is a favorite of the management at Nirvana.
At this point we felt ready to consider dessert, but the second act had not even begun. So, we got over our stage fright and headed up to the dining area. We were greeted by an extremely friendly staff in a cozy environment with exposed brick running the length of the restaurant. The rear section of the dining area doubles as a private dining room and is graced by a massive overhead skylight that is a lovely addition, as well as a conversation piece. The attention to detail is impeccable and understated. Right down to the elegant stemware and the decision to serve family style, the team at Nirvana has made one good choice after another. Our extremely well informed and highly professional server was no beginner. He has a world-class background including gigs at Le Meridien (Saudi Arabia) and Dubai’s famous Jumeirah Beach Hotel. This is indicative of the talent that is apparent from the moment you enter this establishment.
After we were presented with heated plates, the procession of culinary masterpieces started to make their way to our table. The main courses started with the classic and expertly prepared Methi Chicken (fenugreek leaves and spice blend, slow cooked to perfection). This was soon followed by ‘O’ Calcutta Fish which was an incredibly tender, moist and flaky Mahi Mahi, smothered in a chef’s special sauce--special in that they do not divulge the ingredients. Next came the Sukha Nariyal Mutton (South Indian delicacy of baby goat meat, coconut and curry leaves), the outrageously delicious Dahi Baigan (baby eggplant in sweet and sour yogurt gravy) and the Saag Paneer. I have never seen Saag Paneer of this rich color and consistency and was informed by our server that they use fresh spinach, which effectively articulates their commitment to quality. All of these incredible treats were accompanied by a selection of naan and a plate of delightful Lemon Rice, which served with the addition of unsalted cashews, was much more than an accompaniment.
This was a table that would be fit for a king and Chef Daniel D’cruz certainly made us feel like royalty. His attention to detail and high level of expertise and innovation brought us to our feet and made us shout bravo! For the curtain call we indulged in Gulab Jamun (a light pastry dumpling made from dry milk in honey syrup) and the traditional Kulfi (pistachio traditional Indian ice cream). It was a very sophisticated and fitting ending to a luxurious meal. Nirvana is taking all the right cues and breaking new culinary ground with their innovative and imaginative offerings. With performances of this caliber they are sure to keep the rave reviews coming and have a long and healthy run.
India. 1.2 billion citizens, 22 official languages, 1652 dialects, 29 states and one state of mind… Nirvana.
Stimulating the local scene in the Murray Hill section of Manhattan, Nirvana Restaurant lit up their marquee two years ago. Formerly the 35 year home of Stella del Mar, Nirvana took a cue from the sophisticated consumer and a new vision was launched, and a new story is now being told. With many years of industry experience the first effort of the charismatic duo Pravin Mascarenhas and Anil Amin is something that is certainly worthy of praise.
Situated in a duplex on Lexington Avenue, the contemporary, yet warm environment is extremely inviting and beckons you to make yourself a regular fixture. The downstairs boasts an ultra-hip lounge which has played host to a variety of events including fashion shows and weekly live jazz, as well as a regular happy hour that features half-price drinks and free appetizers. The upstairs is an elegant and relaxed dining room which is very welcoming for those ready to get their foodie on.
We decided to start off the evening at the lounge on the lower level with a couple of delicious specialty cocktails and some appetizers. The Tawa Scallops (pan seared sea scallops with tempered coconut yogurt dip) were grilled to perfection, beautifully presented and set the stage for what was to be a memorable performance. The sauce was laced with roasted mustard seeds that created a delightful burst of flavor and added smokiness to the delicate blend. This was quickly followed by the Rosemary Malai Chicken (charcoal grilled in a rosemary cream marinade) whose elegant aroma of fresh roasted cumin was front and center and the brilliant combination of flavors jumped off of our fork and danced on our palate. As we were readying to head up to the main dining room, Pravin insisted that we try the Tandoori Lamb Chops. Accompanied by a sumptuous Pinot Noir, these decadent treats truly tantalized our taste buds. It is no wonder that this is a favorite of the management at Nirvana.
At this point we felt ready to consider dessert, but the second act had not even begun. So, we got over our stage fright and headed up to the dining area. We were greeted by an extremely friendly staff in a cozy environment with exposed brick running the length of the restaurant. The rear section of the dining area doubles as a private dining room and is graced by a massive overhead skylight that is a lovely addition, as well as a conversation piece. The attention to detail is impeccable and understated. Right down to the elegant stemware and the decision to serve family style, the team at Nirvana has made one good choice after another. Our extremely well informed and highly professional server was no beginner. He has a world-class background including gigs at Le Meridien (Saudi Arabia) and Dubai’s famous Jumeirah Beach Hotel. This is indicative of the talent that is apparent from the moment you enter this establishment.
After we were presented with heated plates, the procession of culinary masterpieces started to make their way to our table. The main courses started with the classic and expertly prepared Methi Chicken (fenugreek leaves and spice blend, slow cooked to perfection). This was soon followed by ‘O’ Calcutta Fish which was an incredibly tender, moist and flaky Mahi Mahi, smothered in a chef’s special sauce--special in that they do not divulge the ingredients. Next came the Sukha Nariyal Mutton (South Indian delicacy of baby goat meat, coconut and curry leaves), the outrageously delicious Dahi Baigan (baby eggplant in sweet and sour yogurt gravy) and the Saag Paneer. I have never seen Saag Paneer of this rich color and consistency and was informed by our server that they use fresh spinach, which effectively articulates their commitment to quality. All of these incredible treats were accompanied by a selection of naan and a plate of delightful Lemon Rice, which served with the addition of unsalted cashews, was much more than an accompaniment.
This was a table that would be fit for a king and Chef Daniel D’cruz certainly made us feel like royalty. His attention to detail and high level of expertise and innovation brought us to our feet and made us shout bravo! For the curtain call we indulged in Gulab Jamun (a light pastry dumpling made from dry milk in honey syrup) and the traditional Kulfi (pistachio traditional Indian ice cream). It was a very sophisticated and fitting ending to a luxurious meal. Nirvana is taking all the right cues and breaking new culinary ground with their innovative and imaginative offerings. With performances of this caliber they are sure to keep the rave reviews coming and have a long and healthy run.
India. 1.2 billion citizens, 22 official languages, 1652 dialects, 29 states and one state of mind… Nirvana.
