Davio’s Makes Its Mark
By Doug Singer
Located in the shadow of Grand Central Terminal on Lexington Avenue at East 44th Street, the latest outpost of Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse is offering up a beautiful array of handmade pasta, authentic pizza and of course, top quality Brandt beef steaks. This is a beautifully lavish and extremely comfortable space that is a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle found right outside their front door. Their goal—an unforgettable dining experience and that is exactly what was delivered.
At the culinary helm, is the passionate and quite gifted Chef Chad Brown, a native of Seoul, South Korea. His background includes stints at Mario Batali’s Del Posto, CATCH and Bond 45, but it seems that some of his greatest work is taking place in the present. He has clearly taken the winning recipe of Davio’s highly respected brand and added an elegant and elevated culinary panache.
Along with an extensive wine list, thanks to a cutting-edge contraption called a Coravin, there is also an impressive list of reserve wines by the glass. The Coravin injects argon gas through a needle that is shot straight through the foil and into the cork of an unopened bottle. The argon assists in releasing the wine from the bottle through the needle. Once removed from the bottle, the cork closes up around the needle hole and the bottle is sealed, keeping the remaining wine free from exposure to oxygen—brilliant!
Located in the shadow of Grand Central Terminal on Lexington Avenue at East 44th Street, the latest outpost of Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse is offering up a beautiful array of handmade pasta, authentic pizza and of course, top quality Brandt beef steaks. This is a beautifully lavish and extremely comfortable space that is a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle found right outside their front door. Their goal—an unforgettable dining experience and that is exactly what was delivered.
At the culinary helm, is the passionate and quite gifted Chef Chad Brown, a native of Seoul, South Korea. His background includes stints at Mario Batali’s Del Posto, CATCH and Bond 45, but it seems that some of his greatest work is taking place in the present. He has clearly taken the winning recipe of Davio’s highly respected brand and added an elegant and elevated culinary panache.
Along with an extensive wine list, thanks to a cutting-edge contraption called a Coravin, there is also an impressive list of reserve wines by the glass. The Coravin injects argon gas through a needle that is shot straight through the foil and into the cork of an unopened bottle. The argon assists in releasing the wine from the bottle through the needle. Once removed from the bottle, the cork closes up around the needle hole and the bottle is sealed, keeping the remaining wine free from exposure to oxygen—brilliant!
Our culinary opener was a perfect example of the mad genius of Chef Brown. The Foie Gras Spheras (Pecan, Vin Cotto, Brioche, Arugula, Strawberry Verjus Vinaigrette) are derived from a remarkable process. This is Hudson Valley foie gras, which once completely rendered down, has raw grappa and a touch of heavy cream whipped in prior to going into the hemisphere molds. After being in the freezer long enough to harden a bit, the centers are then filled with fig vin cotto. Two sides are then torched and fused together, then dropped momentarily into the pasta tank to soften the outside enough to welcome the crushed pecans. It is then topped with a sauce of strawberry puree and a verjus reduction. This is just one example, of the over-the-top passion exhibited by Chef Brown and this dish is so complex, he can only make 15 orders per day.
Another standout was the Lemon Ricotta Ravioli. Delicately filled with ricotta and lemon zest and served with sautéed green and yellow summer squash, the finish of sweet corn butter elevated this dish to celebrity status. Running neck and neck was a spectacular Linguine with Clam Sauce which featured Manila and razor clams—a true staple.
The highlight of this epicurean adventure was the Pan Seared Sea Scallops and Pork Belly served with white asparagus, string beans, fava beans and apricot sauce. The pork belly is first brined prior to being braised, then pressed (overnight) and ultimately seared to a succulent perfection. The veggies are deglazed with a bit of the magical bacon brodo. This remarkable liquid is created by starting with 80 pounds of pork ribs, ham hocks and bacon. It is then covered with water and vegetables and an endless cooking process is initiated. When it is reduced to approximately one quart, it is passed through a china cap, then strained and skimmed over and over until it is consommé clear. If that’s not enough, prior to being placed in front of the diner, the dish is accented with a touch of lemon-scented olive oil.
There is no question that this beautiful restaurant experience is being driven by their Executive Chef, Chad Brown. His meticulousness and passion shows up on every plate and on every taste bud. Chad’s expertise, experience and ambitious attitude will take Davio’s Manhattan and the Davio’s brand to new levels. This is an absolute must try!
“Great cooking is always about structure.” ~ Chef Chad Brown
www.davios.com/nyc
Another standout was the Lemon Ricotta Ravioli. Delicately filled with ricotta and lemon zest and served with sautéed green and yellow summer squash, the finish of sweet corn butter elevated this dish to celebrity status. Running neck and neck was a spectacular Linguine with Clam Sauce which featured Manila and razor clams—a true staple.
The highlight of this epicurean adventure was the Pan Seared Sea Scallops and Pork Belly served with white asparagus, string beans, fava beans and apricot sauce. The pork belly is first brined prior to being braised, then pressed (overnight) and ultimately seared to a succulent perfection. The veggies are deglazed with a bit of the magical bacon brodo. This remarkable liquid is created by starting with 80 pounds of pork ribs, ham hocks and bacon. It is then covered with water and vegetables and an endless cooking process is initiated. When it is reduced to approximately one quart, it is passed through a china cap, then strained and skimmed over and over until it is consommé clear. If that’s not enough, prior to being placed in front of the diner, the dish is accented with a touch of lemon-scented olive oil.
There is no question that this beautiful restaurant experience is being driven by their Executive Chef, Chad Brown. His meticulousness and passion shows up on every plate and on every taste bud. Chad’s expertise, experience and ambitious attitude will take Davio’s Manhattan and the Davio’s brand to new levels. This is an absolute must try!
“Great cooking is always about structure.” ~ Chef Chad Brown
www.davios.com/nyc
